Things to Do in Río San Juan

Río San Juan has no ATMs outside its main town, and boats matter more than roads. This remote department hugs Nicaragua's southern border with Costa Rica, where the San Juan River winds from Lake Nicaragua to the Caribbean Sea through dense rainforest and sleepy river towns. Serious isolation here. The region centers around historic El Castillo and the river port of San Carlos. Much of Río San Juan remains undeveloped—the kind of place where you'll share the river with caimans and river otters. It won't be easy to reach, but that isolation preserved both its natural beauty and unhurried pace.

Most meals center around fresh river fish, rice, beans, and plantains. El Castillo has several family-run comedores serving generous portions for under $5, while San Carlos offers more variety including places specializing in guapote, a local fish that's surprisingly good grilled. Many visitors eat at their lodges. The lodges serve hearty, home-style meals using local ingredients. Fresh fruit grows wild along the riverbanks—try the water apples and star fruit.

December through April offers reliable weather and easier river travel. Temperatures climb uncomfortably high by March, but the early wet season brings afternoon showers plus the most active wildlife and lush vegetation. September and October are wettest. Dedicated naturalists sometimes prefer this period for bird watching, though travel disruptions happen. River levels change dramatically between seasons.